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FROM MUNICH TO TOULOUSE:

So we hit the rowdy road after a couple of days recuperating from our busy social schedule in Berlin and Munich. The morning we left, Munich was covered in white. Roads were fine, the Germans know how to handle snow. quite a contrast to Seattle where classes would be cancelled and live shots from local news reporters would make you think we'd been hit by a blizzard.

Said our "wiedersehens" to a sleep-deprived Jason and headed for the Autobahn. By darkness we decided to look for lodging in a small town up in the foothills of the Swiss Alps called Appenzell. (Another "Rick Steves' shoot location I remembered From our "Cow Culture" show a few years back.) I was fuzzy on the details of the place but knew the accommodations better than Zurich and besides, we were ready for a cozy, smaller town. I found the place we'd stayed several years ago, but it was closed for the season. After a quick peruse, we found a warm and friendly Hotel right in the middle of the village called the Hotel Loewen (Hotel Lions). Judy had developed a nasty cold and wished for soft, 200 plus threat count, Egyptian cotton sheets and thick,downy comforters. she got it AND a hot bath. After sleeping for 12 hours she started to come to. Good enough to walk around the village for a few hours the next day and take in the local museum, some shops featuring handcrafted cowbells and Yodel CD's. She was feeling much better by the time we left.

Maybe it was the Yodeling muzak piped in on the Hotel PA system. the mind wanders into lederhosen fantasies of old "Heidi" reruns, red-nosed accordion players, deer antler knives and whiskered Alpine hikers. Anyway, the hotel had a great internet connection for free so what did I care? Yodel on little doggies.

They even had both CNN and BBC world service to remind us of all the saber rattling going on. And we could watch the world weather report and see that it's warmer in Lisbon than the rest of the frozen continent. . We're headed there.

Leaving Appenzell we traveled on to Zurich, Annecy and Nice (pronounced "Neece"). Zurich was just a quick jump off the Swiss freeway because we were still overwhelmed by big cities at the time and I just wanted to show off that IÝknew the cathedral where Marc Chagall had been commissioned to create some stained-glass windows. Judy was impressed. after a short visit to a CD shop nearby and a quick stop at the public pissoir (sp?) near the city center we headed back out on the road. I know, as tour guide I should be ashamed, the city that has been the home to so many great thinkers and artists was given short shrift by yours truly. You think Lenin would be insulted? It was freezing!

Arrived just after nightfall in Annecy, France which for you armchair travelers at home is just south of Geneva, Switzerland and a short car ride to the ski resorts of Albertville and Mount Blanc. (where Evian "bottled at the source" comes from). The best thing about our stay in Annecy is that we found a perfect, intimate and comfortable hotel there with great access to the old city. which was, as advertised, quite rustic and full of charm. We did our homework and looked at another Hotel just down the lake but the Hotel Chateau was better value with a gracious and generous host family, parking and a view over the city.

The next day we had ambitions to get to the French Riviera and that meant 6 hours of driving toll freeways. Smart guy that I am I decided it looked a lot shorter taking a route through the mountains and time saving too. Wrong!

After much driving through winter landscapes reminiscent of those Siberian sleigh scenes in Dr. Zhivago, we crossed the alps and drove through many stunning villages perched up high on cliff tops and all built before the pilgrims hit Plymouth Rock, no doubt. And. . after 7 and a half hours, dizzy and cranky, tobogganed out of the mountains on the old Route Napoleon into Nice. . lit up like a Christmas Tree and the temp. was a balmy 9 degrees Celsius. a veritable heat wave!

Judy:

I was ready to leave Germany but felt sad about leaving Jason whose classes had started. As wonderful as everyone was I still felt kind of weirdónothing I can easily explain. Besides there had been many late hours and a lot more socializing than I'm used. not feeling well I decided it didn't matter where I was - sitting in a hotel or in a car as long as there weren't too many curves in the road.

Kev took us off the road more traveled- we landed in the land of "Heidi" it was the drive-through, Shirley Temple version. By nightfall I was bundled up in the car in the middle of Switzerland while Kevin looked for a Hotel (he knows my preferences) when the phone rang. it was my brother Robby! A cellular and psychic connection all rolled into one. Amazing how these things happen. We talked until the phone beeped and Kev confirmed that we had a place for the night.

I slept most of those 2 days and nights in Switzerland, but did get a sense of how friendly everyone was, and Kev was happy with the Hotel's fast internet connection.

Next stop: Zurich - Kev wanted to show me some Chagall windows. he knows how I love Chagall ‚ a very good idea ‚ well worth it. I emailed my friends in Toulouse asking for suggestions on places to visit on the way ‚Annecy was the response-a picturesque historic French town just over the Swiss border. it was lovely although extremely cold! . We were ready to head south ‚ the evening Euronews told us of a possible war in the Mideast and atomic weapons in North Korea -- but for the moment, I'm more interested in the weather which we're told is the coldest Europe has seen in 15 years!

We head south for sun, warmth and Chagall and took off for the Riviera traveling thru French mountain passes ‚ beautiful landscapes with lots of photo ops. But cold, white knuckle driving and way too curvaceous and long for me. as we descended we watched the outside temp. gauge in the car slowly creep above 0 (32 F) and we were thrilled.

Arriving in Nice we found a great parking place (No small feat) and a comfy spot to sleep - thank you Rick (Steves). We awoke the next morning to sun, and spring-like warmth, 13 degrees (about 56F), and took a casual walk by La Mer!

Add Marc Chagall, Henri Matisse and you get a recipe for "I'm having fun now." However, not being overly fond of large cities I found myself longing for something more manageable. After an omelet in Cannes (not my kind of scene) we drove on toward Arles.

Arles was more like it. the right size, flavor, and our hotel, Le'Ampitheatre was beautiful & very comfortable ‚ we had a view of an old cathedral and were walking distance from the bullfight ring. originally a roman amphitheater. All this at great value for our Euro, wonderful food and a yarn store- practically heaven!

I continued my convalescing- walking, drawing, visiting places Van Gogh had painted, reading and knitting ‚ the icing on the cake was a long, relaxing phone call from my brother Robby. I am indeed fortunate to have 2 great brothers. My brother Allen is taking care of everyone and everything dear to us in the northwest- personal and professional. Robby checks in on a regular basis and also keeps me posted on family matters- especially Shane and Vari.

Time to depart this lovely spot for our friend's home on the outskirts of Toulouse.

We arrived at the home of Andy Blake, Shmulik Alon, Ariel Alon, Barley the dog, and Pandy (short for Pandora) the cat. I've forgotten how much I love Andy. She and I worked together at the Jewish Transcript newspaper 15 years ago. We've stayed in touch as she moved around the world with Shmulik (including a stint in Paris where she regularly jogged with Robby when he and his family lived there), had a kid (Ariel now 12 was friends with my niece Sammantha during their stay in Paris)-now they live in Tournefeille (just west of Toulouse).

Andy is writing a novel - I've gotten to read the work in progress- it's FABULOUS.

We saw an experimental dance performance the night of our arrival and had a dinner to die for at their favorite spot, "LaRue". I'm just happy to hang out, do laundry, and get to know my friend and her family even better. Shmulik gives us suggestions on places to visit and sights to see. He's very considerate ‚ still I'm happy to talk, talk, knit, write, read, cook, talk, and visit some more. This is my idea of a great time.

Kevin:

The whole French Riviera physically reminds one of southern California with its wide, palm tree lined boulevards, roller blading beach culture, beautiful people and posh surroundings. This is prime real estate with every home and building straining for a view of Mediterranean blue and nearly every exterior has some beautifully crafted limestone scrollwork or wrought ironwork balcony.

The Museums and the Mediterranean light were worth the long drive, especially after our time in the Arctic north. In winter, the sun stays low to the horizon as it travels east to west and offers a clear, sharply defined light on everything it touches. The sky seems bluer. color more saturated. that's why Picasso, Chagall and Matisse came here.

The Chagall museum was an absolute knock out. Kaboom! Large format paintings housed in a spacious, well lit, surroundings. We really had the time to soak in each painting and get a sense of the Artist.

Ironically, here was a Jew commissioned to paint stories from the Bible and create stained glass for Christian churches. He seems to have found the common thread of all faiths; that religion at its essence is Love. We find couples in close embrace, floating together, arms entwined, bodies elongated and childlike.

I counted maybe 6 other people in the museum during our visit. 'Vive la low season'.

The Matisse exhibit was impressive too but no comparison to the sheer magnitude and radiant spirit of the work shown at the Chagall museum. Matisse fans will be especially pleased to view personal artifacts of his home in Nice which appear in some of his exhibited work.

In Arles we arrived early enough to get Hotel suggestions at the Tourist Info office. Generally I rely on guide books or personal referrals. We got good Info. the Hotel Amphitheater was so comfortable and convenient we stayed five nights. *arles/rhone, vg.rhone, st.troph.cloisters photos.

I wandered the streets and shot some of the various architectural beauty of Arles. St. Trophime, the Cloisters, the old roman amphitheater for which our Hotel is named.(it's only a stones throw from the real thing) and the various places Vincent Van Gogh painted while he was here in 1888. (staying for just over a year).

Van Gogh developed a new personal style while in Arles, painting constantly, making over 200 paintings here. After several personal setbacks, he cut off part of an ear and spent time recuperating in a local hospital. He painted the beautiful gardens there on a sunny spring day.

Our timing was a little early but I posed Judy in a place reminiscent of that painting.

Also, "CafÈ at Night" was painted at a place Van Gogh liked to experience Arles nightlife. It's still there. I had a little fun in Photoshop, (thanks Andy) creating an interpretation of his famous painting. The winter chill made it pretty quiet there. the cobblestones are gone but one can imagine what it might have felt like to be here in 1888. And with a name like "van gogh cafÈ", I'm sure it packs 'em in come spring.

We found a great restaurant run by a couple who cook in the style of the city of Lyon. If you're in Arles and bypassed Lyon, look no further. the cuisine was terrific! Come try it out. La Charcuterie, 51, rue des arenas. I took a 'happy snap' of our friendly hosts there.

TOULOUSE

Andy, Shmulik and Ariel have been generous hosts. We've had a relaxing time here catching up on email, posting new info for the 'radsab' site, and getting in some local sightseeing too at Shmulik's urging. (Toulouse, Albi and some small medieval villages within an hour of here.)

Never been to Toulouse. It's a big city about 700,000 strong and the first thing you notice when you get downtown is how everything is made of brick. They call it 'La Villa Rosa' because of its typically light colored brickwork which comes from the red colored earth of south France.

Toulouse should ring a bell to some of you in Seattle, it's the home to Airbus Industries, a multi-national airplane manufacturer and archrival to Seattle's Boeing. (formerly of Seattle)

Shmulik works for a company that designs and builds aircraft doors and he loves Toulouse. Says it reminds him a lot of Seattle: There's high tech and an aeronautical industry,it's a university town. so there are students, airplanes and high tech. How's the weather? It's warm and sunny here and downright Hot in the summer. A stone's throw from Spain nand Italy and host to some of the best gastronomy in France. That means good food folks. Ok it doesn't have Puget sound but it's not far to the Mediterranean. They don'thave wild Salmon and clams and Red Cedar forests. but they got sunshine.

Never mind. Shmulik loves the cultural life here and there's a case to be made for great world cinema and modern dance venues here.

They've taken us to two great modern dance performances: one where we were groping around in the dark to find our chairs for 20 minutes; and another where men were jumping around with their pants down and their johnsons hanging out. they weren't of the Jewish faith I might add. Might not see that just everywhere. Sexy women were dancing to bosa nova and performing faux sex with their underwear on. Ok, maybe you'd see that in a strip club in Portland but the music would probably not be Brazilian. More like Cobainian. Nope, they're definitely less the Puritan ilk here in France. Gotta like that.

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