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If every journey begins with a first step I think ours was a leap.A leap of faith as well as a leap across the "pond" to Europe. We're feeling great now that we're here, drinking wine and bottled water named for an Italian saint, eating bagettes, smelly cheese and being hosted by some very dear old friends and even folks who hardly know us. But just a short while back as we were in final countdown for leaving home, our life seemed like Dorothy caught in the twister... in a swirling house emptied of all its contents and wondering where we'd end up once the spinning stopped.

AMSTERDAM

Why did we stay in Amsterdam? A brief story.

Judy's mother, Sylvia, had a best friend named Lenore Kane. In fact both their mothers were best friends too and both families lived on the same block in Brooklyn's Borough Park. The Kanes and the Wilkins women were inseparable.

Lenore had a younger sister named Rita who as a young teenager spent countless afternoons with Sylvia...her door was always open to the neighbor kids. For Rita, Sylvia was like an older sister, a second mother and a role model all wrapped into one. Rita was especially lonesome because her own mother was always gone working in New York City and her sister Lenore had recently married and moved to Texas... (late 1940's)

By a tragic twist of fate a few years later, both Sylvia and Lenore died of cancer (Lenore in her early 30's and Sylvia at 40) each leaving behind 3 children. Both families were devastated and have been healing ever since...

Judy remembered Rita only vaguely, she was about 10 the last time they met. In the 40 some years since they'd last seen each other, Rita is now "Rickie", lives and works in Amsterdam and connected with Judy via email when she heard that Judy and I were planning on a European Trip. "You've got to come visit us," she said.

Now here we were...about to reunite these two women from the Kanes and the Wilkins families once again...whose grandmothers and mothers had been best friends. It was instant recognition, instant connection. They were hugging and kissing each other throughout our stay. For Judy, talking with Rickie was like being in the presence of her mother's spirit.It was a re-union in the truest sense. Rickie had been very close to Sylvia and had vivid, lasting memories of her as a young woman before Judy was born. "Above all she was very kind to everyone", said Rickie.

And for Rickie, Judy's strong physical resemblance to Sylvia, and her emotional attributes. brought her friend and mentor's spirit back to life. From the moment we arrived, they were two peas in a pod which even arctic winds from the North Sea couldn't separate.

Within an hour of our arrival in Amsterdam we were doing deep breathing exercises and yoga stretches in Rickie's studio... Rickie and her husband Henry Marshall live and work in Amsterdam. They're doctors of psychotherapy who for the last 20 some years have conducted therapeutic training seminars and healing "playshops" all across Europe. They have helped countless clients, written several books on psychotherapy and recorded several CD's of Indian chants & Mantras. They are wonderful people and not by accident...having consciously spent years working through personal setbacks to get to that point.

These two go together like hand and glove. Loving, caring sincere people who have found a mission in living purposefully. That's the best way I can describe them.no effort seems wasted, every action is purposeful to an outcome of their own choosing... Needless to say, I wasn't asking to watch TV.it would've seemed so mindless.

We spent 5 days in Amsterdam. We did a lot of talking every night, a little sherry and some fromage, whatever we'd bought at the market that day...We walked the weekend flea market took in the Jordaan area, their wonderful neighborhood just 10 mins walk from the center of Amsterdam.We felt so lucky to have such a terrific location and a charming old home.

The hippy love van idea turned into a bust...the Dutch VW campers had seen much better days. Even the salesman was referring to them as "shitty vans" which closed the deal for me. We checked out another dealer and made up our mind to look for another alternative...for the moment, we decided to take the train... more on that later.

Before leaving Holland, we did a day trip with Henry, Rickie and the boys to Belgium where they preformed to a crowd of over 250 people who sang and chanted healing Mantras...This lasted the whole afternoon and by the evening we were spent from the singing and the driving. The response was joyful and meditative. This is Henry's special thing... he spent many years learning eastern philosophy, meditation and healing through chanting sanscrit mantras... He has already recorded over 8 CD's... The good vibes were abundant that day...

To find out more about Rickie Moore and Henry Marshall'swork, go to their web site at: http://www.inpeacenet.com/

PARIS

Took the fast train to Paris from Amsterdam...about 4 hours. Our hosts in Paris... my old and dear pal, John Blackman and his wife,Victoria Foote-Blackman and their daughter, Antonia.

Antonia is my goddaughter. She's a very special 5 year old... and I'm not making that up. It's been about 4 years since I've seen her. She speaks French, loves Judy and we had the best time together playing with her stuffed animals, going to a kids concert, drawing, reading bedtime stories and jumping on the bed.

John, Victoria & Antonia all used to live in the heart of "Paree." But they've just recently moved out of their small Parisian apartment and rented a home in the suburbs of Paris called Le Vesinet. John and I have known each other about 15 years. He's a terrific soundman who I've worked with countless times on news and corporate jobs. We like to kid each other a lot. He's like a brother to me.

Victoria is practically a native having grown up in France as a young woman with her American family. Her fluent French is disarming with its lilting cadence.Neither of us speak very confidently "Ala Francaise..." I'm lucky to order a couple of croissants successfully.

Judy refrains from most French conversation but loves to burst out with the occasional and melodic, "BON jour!" whenever the opportunity presents itself... which usually wakes up a few sleepy shop keepers.

The Blackmans were wonderful hosts, knocking themselves out at every opportunity. Home made soup and an impressive collection of cheeses and fresh Baguettes were waiting for us upon our arrival. Then each evening, John would cook a multi-course French meal which meant several hours in the kitchen marshalling sauces and fresh simmering ingredients. I even learned the origin of real French toast. (day-old Bageuttes ) We would jump in to help but John, in full apron, had complete command of the plate d'jour. They were fantastic hosts and we loved being there with them.

Not only was the 'gastronomie' delicious and very "Fran-ch" (thanks to Victoria's influence) but the Blackmans were sincerely concerned about our cultural nourishment as well. So...we all took the train into Paris to see the Modigliani show at the Luxembourg museum...we even waited in line to see these beauties... it was worth the wait...We love Modigliani!

So, back to making plans for a vehicle.Judy remembered something one of her book club friends told her about a great 'deal' leasing a brand new car in France. We did some looking and with incredible luck found Renault online and booked the whole thing with a couple of faxes and some on-line forms. The good news... we've booked a brand new car for 5 months with full insurance and unlimited mileage for less than $20/day... and we may extend it another month if we like. It's called a Renault "Scenic," runs on diesel and it's perfect. (If you're interested, go through "Google" (www.Google.com) and type in European car leasing...both Peugeot and Renault have programs specifically designed for the American traveler.)

We stayed three nights in Paris then headed north by Train to Brittany where we took the bus and then a taxi to the Dinard Airport...flying by a prop plane to Guernsey in the Channel Islands just north of St. Malo. We were on our way to see my old friend Pete.

GUERNSEY

Most people get a funny look on their face when I say we've been to Guernsey. "Where's that?" It's part of the Channel Islands just north of the French coast in the English Channel...Guernsey, Jersey...you know where the famous milk cows come from. Most folks have never been there much less heard of it.

But I wasn't going there to research dairy culture.

25 years ago I met Peter Cameron aboard a Greek ferry headed for the island of Rhodes. It was a rough sea voyage and I was getting the run around by some officious ship's clerk. But because we shared the queens tongue Peter and I gravitated towards one another and talked about being inspired to travel by reading Henry Miller and a love of photography. He was headed to Rhodes from Munich to live with his German Girlfriend. It was an experiment...they were tired of the life in Germany.

They were an odd but attractive couple; she didn't blend into a crowd...passionate with flaming red henna hair, part Gypsy and a ball buster of a woman. That was Margie. By contrast, Pete was tall, dark haired with beard, quiet and contemplative with a wry, dry English sense of humor. We hit it off and shared some home made, German white lighting called Obstla out under the stars on ship's deck in some small shot glasses I had brought with me from my travels in Crete.

That's how it all started...and despite lost girlfriends and failed relationships, new children, instant families, and changing jobs and addresses, we've kept in contact ever since.from tiny little Guernsey (which is where Peter is from) to Berlin, Seattle and Bremerton, etc. we've managed to keep the fire alive.

Now was an especially good time for a reunion, Pete recently left his marriage of over 20 years and is living alone in a rented flat in the main town of St Peter Port on Guernsey. His latest incarnation is as a civil servant. He's become a disciplined practicioner of Zen Buddhism and belongs to a small group of Zen- minded folk in Guernsey. He loves music, especially Jazz (Nina Simone)... and loves his bread machine... its the yeasty smell of fresh bread when he comes home.

Pete has two children, Pedro (22) and Sophia (13). Pedro was off studying in America and we missed him by just a couple of days but Sophia came by and we spent some wonderful afternoons with the two of them. They're very close.

We stayed at Pete's and made our rounds through the town of St. Peter Port which was elbow to elbow during the pre-Christmas shopping. Pete took us around by car circumnavigating the small but hearty Island showing us historic sites of Druid/prehistoric man as well as the remnants of a long and hard German occupation (WWII) which left many concrete gun emplacements behind. Guernsey has some beautiful beaches which we walked together sucking in it's briney salt air. The December winds brought on sudden outbursts of impromptu Tai Chi movement along the sandy strand.

3 days with Pete and it was time to head back to the French mainland en-route to pick up our new rental car in Paris. It was a great visit Pete...we love you and hope to see you again very soon.

St. Malo, Mont.St. Michel & PARIS...part deux

After leaving Peter sadly but joyfully behind in Guernsey, we flew to the northern French city of St. Malo, an ancient walled city/fortress on the Brittany coast. We were like the last people on earth there because there were few if any tourists lurking around (one of the benefits of travel in the offseason friends!). This proved to be the case at Mt. St. Michel too which is infamous for the swarm of tourists it attracts during the 'high season'.

We weren't alone but we were among maybe 20 people wandering through the walled fortress/church at any one time.

I've wanted to go to this place since seeing photos of it as a kid. I remember that image of this tall walled fortress topped with a medieval cathedral which was only accessible when the tide was out. When the tide came in, it was totally protected by the natural elements.

Mont Sant Michel dates back to 708 A.D. when a Catholic bishop had a sanctuary built on this tiny island of granite in honor of the archangel St. Michael. Saint Michael is head of the heavenly army and was known for his victory over the dragon (symbol of the Devil in western cultures).

Over the years the Benedictines settled in the abbey while a village grew up below its formidable walls. The monks who lived and worked here practiced a life of prayer and work and their building sophistication shows. It's ramparts and fortifications resisted all the English assaults during the Hundred Years War and soon became a symbol of national identity.

Following the French Revolution it was used as a Prison. All food and supplies had to be hoisted up by a giant wheel with long ropes much like an oversized pulley.

Judging from the bill we had for a small meal there, I think they're still using that old wheel.

Driving along the northern coast of France from Brittany into Normandy reminded me of the Northwest's Skagit Valley.Flatlands with narrow roads studded with old stone houses along the way.

Judy:

We kept seeing mounds of oysters shells and signs for 'houtres' , a favorite of ours and opted to stop along the way back to St. Malo to purchase 2 dozen along with a shucker, baguettes, cheese, Calvados, and mineral water to feast on back in our room while watching Tom Hanks speak 'French' in "The Green Mile".

We trained back to Le Vesinet (Paris) where we were welcomed with another wonderful home-cooked meal at the Blackmans. Kev was nursing a toothache that was attended to, and the next day we picked up our Renault Scenic. ordering on-line and picking up the car has been one of our easiest transactions since arriving in Europe!

We set out for Germany after seeing John off on a job and Antonia off to school. Victoria presented us with a lovely picnic lunch and off we went, very slowly at first-- it took a few hours to depart Paris as it was the beginning of winter holidays.Kev did a great job driving and turned the wheel over to me after being on the highway for a few hours , we decided to spend the night in Baden-Baden after 5 hours on the road.

I have not been keen on coming to Germany -- but years ago Kev lived in Berlin (BJ: before Judy) and Jason chose to do a year abroad with Lewis and Clark College (Portland, Oregon) in Munich. I visited a commune in Dussledorf in 1970 with John and found myself eyeing with suspicion any man who was my father's age (old enough to participate in WWII). Growing up Jewish has given me a creepy feeling about spending time here.but.one highlight of this year abroad for me is spending time with Jason and so here I am.

Somehow I feel more popular being a "Jew in Germany". The people I've encountered are wonderful, warm, intelligent and friendly, albeit they've been pre-selected. friends of Kevin and Jason. Nevertheless, I'm having a grand time.

BADEN-BADEN,GERMANY.

Baden-Baden was a charming old town with cobblestone streets, pedestrian walking zones and great 'baths'. My favorite time to visit tourist destinations is during the "off season". We spent the day at 'Freidrichs Bad' -- faded splendor complete with huge, Victorian era showers, dry saunas, herbal steam rooms -- I even got a good scrub before joining Kevin in the thermal pools where everyone relaxes in the nude -- the final stop is getting wrapped up like a baby to rest and dream! After our baths we happened upon an art exhibit of works by a father and daughter (Schliessler who both spend time in Baden-Baden and Vancouver, BC) there was also an exhibit of nightmarish images by Joachim Teegelbecbers.

MUNICH, GERMANY

It was time to hit the road and off we went in the pouring rain to Munich (Munchen) , Jason's phone wasn't working so we purchased a map and found our way to his room --YEAH!!!! We arrived on Dec. 22, 2002 ...Jason's 22nd Birthday!! After arranging to stay in his friend's room down the hall (who was away for the holiday) we took Jason, Kalisa, and friend Will (visiting from Scotland on his way back to the US) to dinner.

The next day we visited some sites and purchased a phone. After a bit of research we decided to buy a phone which takes different 'sim' chips for each country , we will have a few different phone numbers but this seems the best way to go for our purposes.

Almost everything in Germany closes down on holidays. Jason, Will and I made a trip out to Dachau Christmas day , it was cold, foggy, and very gray, a perfect day to pay homage to the perserverance of the human spirit , beset by emotions of anger and sadness that people could be so inhumane to other people we returned to our temporary home away from home, cooked a warm lunch and went out to the Lenbachhaus Museum via the U-Bahn. We feasted our eyes on many works of the Blue Rider School, especially those of a personal favorite, Wassily Kandinsky. After our evening meal we went to see the original version (English) of "The Two Towers" , the second installment of Lord of the Rings. Even the late 10pm show was packed. Good thing we had reserved seats. Thanks Jason.

Christmas is a 2 day holiday in Germany and on the second day I completed my 'montage' called Christmas Eve in Munchen. We dropped Will off at the airport and headed out to Pfaffenhofen for a visit and meal with some new friends of Jason's. Klaus, Ulrike and Esther Voswinckel were our hosts. I really enjoyed our visit with this family and their animals. The parents are documentary film-makers and lovers of literature, art, and philosophy. Klaus specializes in making documentaries of "new-classical" composers. Ulricke has been studying the primarily jewish writers, artists, scientists, and intelligensia who fled Germany prior to WWII. , the brain/art drain.

While visiting with the Voswinckel family Kevin and I try to explain what we are doing and why , I say we don't really know and Kev doesn't like this , he doesn't like to sound like he doesn't know what he's doing , I like to make things up as we go , so. this is now our joke , Kev has a plan and I don't!

We do have a plan for the next day however, we will head to Berlin to see old friends and welcome the New Year.

BERLIN

Kev is thrilled to be in Berlin and especially happy to have me here with him. I must admit I'm having fun , Driving down the Kudamm with the holiday lights on at night is quite beautiful and modern- with so many designer shops we could almost be in Paris! We visit the 'Kunstler Markt' (artist market) where I'm smitten with an original 'almost' dress that we buy for me to wear on 'Silvester' New Year's Eve. After a little bartering, Jason gets a great buy on a warm lambskin coat at the flea market, and we also get him a lovely scarf from the Kunstler Markt. Kev finds some old WWI newspapers for my brother Allen who likes to collect war memorabilia. Kevin also likes the hot "gluwein" served outdoors at the market, mixed with Rum to warm the core.

The real purpose of our visit to Berlin is to see Kev's old friends , including his old girlfriend, Sonja and her boyfriend Ernst as well as her daughter Inez (now Jason's age). We are caught up in a whirlwind of friends and friends of friends and family members and gatherings and coffee and more socializing. We drive around the city with Kevin and Sonja who point out how Berlin has changed since the wall came down over 10 years ago. There is also a lot of talk about the troubled economy, the possibility of war in Iraq, and what it's like for me as a Jew to visit Berlin.

We attend "Silvester" at gorgeous 2 story Berlin apt. on the top of a beautiful old pre-war building not far from the Kudam. Our hosts live in a "wohngemeinschaft" or flat-sharing community, home to 3 physicians. everyone is gracious, fun to talk with, and very friendly! The food is great -- Kev and I dance in the new year after watching fireworks and a DVD playing Hitchcock's "North by Northwest" , I feel as if my life is a movie too , on the one hand I'm participating fully, and on the other observing myself and others from 'outside'. It is strange to think I'm in Berlin with Jason and Kevin, and yet.

There is also Kris Szwaja, another longtime friend of Kev's still living in Berlin with his family; Polish wife Alina, a painter, daughter Suzannah-who speaks English, German, Polish, and Italian at the age of 13! Jeanie the pooch and Charcoal the cat.

We have so many social calls to make that we find only one and a half days to visit museums! Besides it's holiday time in Germany - just about everything is closed or closes early and these days I'm going to bed later and later.I need a vacation from my vacation!

We visit more and say our good-byes leaving prints of some of my Dog Icons (Heilige Hunde) with friends as we depart saying we will come back in the summer , I would also like to visit Poland with Alina as our guide. Jason has been having a lot of fun being shepherded around by Inez who now travels back to Amsterdam to continue her studies in Psychology.

Kev:

Our stay in Berlin seemed to flash by our eyes. Lots of looking up old friends and some old haunts. It was 20 years ago to the day nearly, that I left Berlin (1982).I'd been back a couple of times since but for just a few days alone or working. It was like a dream to return with both Judy and Jason.

Our accommodations were warm and cozy at Pension Peters right in the heart of "old" west Berlin just blocks from where I used to live. A great location for public transit connections and it's right on Savigny Platz which has great shops and restaurants all around. Just ask Rick Steves, we stayed there during our city shoot 2 years ago. I opted for a slightly larger room this time.

Without any preparation my German got a workout and with practice and some *embarrassing moments, it slowly came around. (* like the first day in a Munich coffeeshop when I asked for fresh milk "without condoms" when I meant without preservatives.) That got a pretty good laugh.

Jason's German is terrific and he's picked it up very quickly in just 5 months! How does he do it? He watches German TV, reads newspapers, shares some beer and chatter with some of his fellow foreign students and he's even picked up a slight Bavarian accent..or so he's been told. "Nicht Schlecht!" (not bad!).

Jason had a great time in Berlin.staying out late at dance clubs, kniepen (taverns) & private parties meeting german girls who think his German's pretty cute. His cousins were visiting there, he knew Inez and met her friends, even our host's daughter, Johanna, showed him around town one afternoon. So he's starting to consider Berlin and ponders a future living and working there.He says it'll depend on how many friends he'll make in Munich by the time school's finished. It may not be such an easy choice.

Munich is a prosperous, more intimate city than Berlin and ideal for trips to Italy, Czech rep.,Austria, Switzerland, France and the fairy tale like Tirolian countryside and the Alps offering year round recreation. The food is hearty and BMW's, Beer and Weisswurst are king.

Berlin is the New York of Germany. It's the cultural and Political heart.constantly awake and alive. And while most are getting ready for bed in Munich, Berlin beats 24/7. Its bright flame attracts the young and ambitious from all political & ethnic persuasions; Germans, Russians, Poles, Turks and Asians abound. Berlin still has it. For me anyway. especially now with both East and West reconnected. The choices, the architecture, the lifestyles and the huge apartments are astonishing as is the speed with which the reconstruction of East Berlin has occurred.

Regarding food, to those who put any weight into eating trends, My German friends tell me that besides the recent proliferation of a sushi bar on every corner, the current 'hot' ethnic restaurants in Berlin and Munich are Mexican. Can't get enough of those tacos fritos and Mexican beer with Lime.

Speaking of Beer, come on over.it's about 1/2 the price of most US Brands. In a store, 6 packs run about $2.50-$3.50 for top name local and Euro brands. Don't even think about ordering a "Bud". You can get it but why drink beer-flavored water with a name 'borrowed' from a far better tasting Czech brand.

Berlin's FlohMarkt (flea market) is one of my favorite addictions. One I've really missed for the past 20 years.there's nothing like it. Although it was sub-freezing weather the weekend we went, winter chills the body but a hot glass of Gluwein warms the soul. Spiced wine served warm, a little rum and you're in business, ready to barter with the pro's and amateurs alike.

Jason scored on a slightly used lambswool, leather coat. I bought some old yellowed WW1 newspapers for Judy's brother.all in the old Gothic style print (1915). But there's a ton of great stuff. Antiques of every sort, china, cutlery, glass, stamps, coins, militaria, postcards, film & ad posters, clothes, leather jackets and brass door handles, Russian Icons, East German & Russian memorabilia.and so much more. It's a place for both the hardcore 'collector' and the amateur alike. We had a great time there and I was heartened to see Judy genuinely impressed. She bought a new dress from a local designer that was a show-stopper at our New Years Eve party. Not just anyone could pull that off.

MUNICH

Back in Munich now where I reconnected with another friend from the past, Joseph Deutsch. He goes by "Sepp" short for Jo-seph. We like to kid him about his translated name: Joe German. (He's born and raised here in Bavaria) has a warm & beautiful wife, Conny (from Cornelia) and two daughters, Julia and Gloria. Joe is one of the most generous men I've ever met. He's kind, fair and raised on old world principles of hard work and good living. I met him over 20 years ago, he was Sonja's sister's boyfriend before she moved to Berlin. We stayed at his place many times whenever we'd come on a Munich visit.

We had a great get together at his home with he and his family, some Bayrisches food at a place called Osterweggarten. When I asked for a munich favorite, Weiss Wurst, (white sausage) a mix of Pork and veal, boiled not fried till tender, the waiter laughed and raised a large pepper grinder and pretended to slug me with it.I forgot that in Bavaria, Weiss Wurst is normally only on the menu until 12 noon. After that it's considered too stale and not fresh enough to eat. "Kein Weiss Wurst" (No weiss wurst) he said.smiling.

The next day, Joe offered to meet me for a weiss wurst lunch at a big brewhaus near the old city hall called Weiss Brauhaus. We each had three delicious wurst with sweet mustard, chased with a tall weizen beer. Wow!

By accident, I'd left my scarf at the Bavarian-style resturant the night before and returned there the next day to ask if it had been found.the same waiter spotted me and before I could ask for my scarf. "Kein Weiss Wurst", he said with a grin, but they did have my black scarf.

Jason is in good hands here in Munich..Sepp wants to keep an eye out on him and offered to take Jason skiing sometime this winter. No argument there! Now he has Joe German and family watching out for him. It doesn't get better than that.

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